Fig-Four vs Schmoolz

August 11th, 2011

Ever since the invention of ice-climbing, climbers have devised methods for training for the specific skills needed to ascend snow, ice and mixed. Trees have been climbed with axes and crampons. Rock has been abused. Grivel used to sell plastic picks to retro fit to existing axes. Rope Race had a foam sheet, the Beacon Climbing centre in North Wales had a dedicated dry-tooling area and most successfully The Ice Factor in Kinlochleven uses walls of real ice.

However driving to Scotland to train isn’t always practical and over the last few year two similar pieces of equipment have been developed that offer a more convenient method for getting strong for your attempt on those steep Northern Corries mixed routes or for your visit to Vail.

The idea is so simple it’s strange that no one has thought of it before. A bent bit of wood designed to mimic a modern ice-axe handle with a thin rubber loop at the pick end for hooking over the existing holds on a normal climbing wall. These training aids allow climbers to accurately replicate the actions of steep winter climbing indoors, without damaging the holds or base panels of existing climbing surfaces. The design allows climbers to train at their local climbing wall or at home on their cellars or woodies.

Both the Figfours and the Schmoolz use the same principle but with some subtle differences between the two devices

Alpkit Figfour
The original and award winning design. Developed from an idea first imagined in 2004. The Figfours are beautifully engineered, It is obvious that a lot of care and thought has gone into making the Figfours as good as they can be. The wooden handle is comfy and can be hung onto without discomfort for extended periods of training. The handles offer less support than the Schmoolz but that does mean you get pumped sooner but consequently stronger quicker. The large rubber loop fits easily over larger holds but also grips well on smaller crimps. £65 + free postage

Dan Bradley using the Alpkit FigFours at The Works bouldering wall in Sheffield - Copyright Alex Ekins

The Schmoolz are a copy of the Figfours but with some subtle differences. Most immediately obvious is that the handles are shaped to resemble a modern leash-less axe. This means that the Schmoolz are easier to hold onto. The handles are also thinner which will suit climbers with smaller hands and the children who tried them preferred the Schmoolz over the Figfours. However some people found that the pronounced curve at the bottom of the Schmoolz handle meant that a lot of weight was directed onto the little finger, which became slightly painful after extended use. £60 + £5 postage

Tom Randall using the Schmoolz training tools at The Edge climbing wall in Sheffield. (Alex Ekins)
Tom Randall using Schmoolz at The Edge climbing wall in Sheffield – Copyright Alex Ekins


It’s obvious that both the Figfours and the Schmoolz do pretty much the same thing. I preferred the Figfours but having said that, I don’t think the difference between the two devices is that great and I’m sure that climbers would be perfectly happy with whichever of the two tools they buy. Both are available to buy online.

Thanks to Virgin Active Sheffield, The Edge, The Works, Dan Bradley, Tom Randall and Ed Chard at The Association of Mountaineering Instructors.

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2 comments on “Fig-Four vs Schmoolz

  1. ADL says:

    Is there not a rather obvious risk of people dropping these things on other wall users if they are using them without leashes or tethers?

    • Alex Ekins says:

      Yes dropping the tools on other users is a possibility. The best solution seems to be some sort of leash. Both tools have holes in the bottom of the handles.

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